MSL Press Conference (201207160003HQ)

Xbox One (OG/S/X) and the Series X consoles – No Video Debug Strategy – Common Console Debug Responses

Check the following items in sequential order:

  1. Try another HDMI port and HDMI cable on the TV. Verify if the issue is with the console, or the TV. Use a different TV if you have the ability to do so. Ensure you have the correct HDMI input selected on the TV.
  2. Force low resolution mode. Press and hold the Xbox button and the Eject button until you hear a beep to turn on the console. There will be a beep when it turns on, and a second beep 10 seconds later. Let the buttons go. If you own a XB1S digital edition, use the sync button instead of the eject button. If you don’t get video here, it could be one of the items below. continue on.
  3. HDD health – Disassemble your console. Remove the HDD and plug it into your PC and scan it with any utility that read out the SMART data – such as CrystalDiskInfo, HDSentinel or gsmartcontrol. If the drive is bad, replace it. If its good, move on. The Xbox Series X uses an M.2 SSD. You’ll need an adapter to test it on your PC.
  4. Check the HDMI port – inside and out. Verify if the HDMI pins to the board for a sturdy solder joints and if there are electrical shorts between pins, or from a pin to ground. If the port is physically damaged, it needs to be replaced. Also check for +5V on pin 18 of the port – this is used to power the DDC bus.
  5. Check the RF chokes (filters) for continuity between the port and the retimer/redriver. Also check for shorts between the positive and negative legs of the differential pairs.
  6. Check the HDMI retimer/redriver
    a. The Xbox One (OG model) doesn’t have a retimer or redriver.
    b. For the Xbox One S, replace the retimer – TI DP159.
    c. For the Xbox One X, replace the redriver – TI TDP158.
    d. For the Xbox Series X, replace the redriver – On Semiconductor NB7NQ621M.

    Verify the VCC and VDD voltages of the retimer/redriver are good. Measure the voltages of the caps around the device when the console is in standby/off. 3.3 V and 1.1 V are fed into these devices for the XB1S and XB1X.

    The series X is a 3.3V redriver device.
  7. Check the HDMI booster (DDC bus rise time accelerator/ESD protection circuit) – Check the small exposed die IC next to the HDMI port that connects the DDC Bus (I2C SDA + SCL) lines.

    If you want to debug it — if you have an oscilloscope and/or a I2C protocol analyzer, you can try and see if the I2C transactions are competing. Hook up the I2C SCL/SDA lines on the host side (the Xbox side) and check the transactions with your scope/analyzer. Then do the same thing on the line side (the HDMI port side). Verify the rise/fall times are within the I2C spec range at 0.3*VDD and 0.7*VDD. Do a google search for the I2C spec. Look at the tables for standard mode (100 kHz) operation for the required timing parameters. Check for transaction completion (ACK) vs failure (NACK).

    If you need to replace it:
    a. For the Xbox One S, the part is a STMicro HDMI2C4-5F2 and may be purchased from online distributors
    b. For the Xbox One X – the part is not publicly available for sale. Source from XB1X units.
    c. For the Xbox Series X – it’s the same part as the XB1X. Not publicly available.
  8. If you still get no video, and you’ve read down to this far and have tried everything, make a post with pictures to show your rework. Then we’ll try and step in to help.

You’ll need a hot air station, soldering iron and the knowledge on reworking ICs and HDMI port to be successful here.